Light Blue Bean and Neopixels

Adding more than three neopixels may require the addition of a voltage regulator, 
a transistor, and resistors.

Using the Blue Bean app, I can control LEDs from an iPad.

I've been experimenting with neopixels, using a Gemma, an ATtiny85, and most recently the Light Blue Bean.  While I am most excited about the potential of the ATtiny85, because of its smaller size and cost, I am also intrigued by the idea of controlling a gadget wirelessly.

Using the code from the Smartphone Controlled Mood Light project, modified to accommodate fewer LEDs, I'm able to control the color of three neopixels soldered to wire. So far, I'm only able to change the color of all the neopixels at the same time, rather than being able to customize each one individually.

If I changed the code to accommodate two LEDs, I could use this to control two glowing eyes, which would be a much easier way to do this than the Evil LED Goat project.  If I wanted to be able to remotely change the color of a hat or other wearable, this could also be useful, although doing so seems like a waste of a $30+ microcontroller.

My next step is to try to modify the code to make use of the accelerometer and or the buzzer. While I like the idea of being able to change the color of a project remotely, I'm interested in using the Bean for something a bit more useful.  I have a lot more to learn first.

FLOG: Light Blue Bean

FLOG (Failure Log) Alert:

In a previous post, I started exploring the Light Blue Bean, also referred to as the Arduino Bean.  I had little difficulty getting it set up on my PC, and I was excited to try to my first real project, but I made a serious miscalculation by jumping right into a project without prototyping first (something that would have been easier to do with more than one Bean).  As a result, I ended up making a soldering error that caused the Bean to stop connecting to the power pin.  After several hours of playing around, taking things apart, and re-soldering did not solve my problem, I suspected that I'd damaged the gadget beyond repair.

Another error that I made, when attempting to solder header pins to my Bean (an idea that I took from Lucie's post), was making an assumption that Beans work in the same way as a typical bread board.  I mistakenly thought that all of the pins in column 1, for example, could be programmed in the same way as the first pin in that column. Since all of the holes in the first row of my Bean already had solder in them from my first project, I figured I'd just move down a row and start over. This did not work!  Only the first pins in each column are directly programmable via Arduino or an iOS device via the Bean Loader or the Tickle app.

Success at Last:

To make a long story short, +Craig Lyndes identified and repaired my power issue and encouraged me to try prototyping again, this time moving my header pins from the second to the top row!  I am happy to report that I've got my Bean working again!

Now, I am able to make LEDs blink on demand from a PC, iPad, or iPhone, and I have a working Bean to use exclusively for prototyping.  Although I will need to buy an additional one for a future project, I have learned a lot from this process!  Thanks +Lucie deLaBruere and Craig.

Exploring the Light Blue Bean

Earlier this summer, I ordered a Light Blue Bean from punchthrough.com/bean, a gadget I wasn't ready to play with until today.  This small chip, which you can see blinking on the left, is a wirelessly programmable microprocessor that uses the Arduino IDE and Bluetooth.  It is about an inch tall by two inches wide and is powered by a 3V coin cell battery. Since it communicates over Bluetooth, there are no wires to connect when programming!  So far, I've only uploaded a couple of sample sketchs and started playing around with the settings.  I haven't yet committed to a sample project, but I'm interested seeing where this exploration leads.  One of the tutorials on their website has directions for creating an "evil goat" with LED eyes that can be controlled by an iPhone!  What's not to love about that?

This is what the Bean Loader looks like in Windows 10.  I've got a special version of Arduino opened up on the the left.  Once you've uploaded the code there, it goes into a folder on your hard drive. From there, you select, "Program" to wireless upload the code to the device.